With a car in ruins we could not travel the roads, the Ugandan police are liable to take any measure like an extreme fine or even confiscation of a vehicle if they see such a spectacle through their corrupt lenses, not to mention the fact that we did not have fully functioning headlights and it was getting dark, so we stopped in Kabale in a motel like hotel for the night. We put the car in for repair at a local mechanic and friend of the families, these men jumped into life measuring parts, unscrewing bits and bobs, it was all rather frantic, being tired we left them to their work. We took bicycles home, a rider will take one or two people on the back of his bike were there is a cushioned space for passengers, then he will strain his way to the destination for money, being the only form of transport around we reluctantly accepted, I felt bad relaxing while this guy was giving it his all.
So good to get a great sleep, a hot shower and a solid breakfast of food that my digestive system is used to. I had a minor altercation with the management team over breakfast, they wanted to charge me double the set menu price for my scrambled eggs, they claimed they added an extra egg without telling me, my advice to any African hotel staff who try this... watch out for the law student, we argued for about half an hour until i walked away paying the original amount. Close to Kabale lies one of Uganda's most celebrated attractions, Lake Bunyonyi. Since we had no car and could not continue our journey towards Kampala until it was repaired we decided to make the detour by taxi. Lake Bunyonyi fills you with anticipation because even from afar it is a stunning sight, try as i might I could not get my camera to give it just deserts. Imagine the beauty of the countryside we had been driving through reflected in a calm smooth surface of a large, wonderful lake. This lake is rumoured to be the deepest in Africa and we caught it at such a perfect moment, there had been rain the day before and while we were there massive black clouds broken by blue sky loomed, we met the calm before the Storm on the lake. Picture after picture of the lake reflecting, hills, clouds and sky.... We paddled the lake using a canoe, reaching the far shores where a little resort welcomed us with friendly arms. This is the utopia that everyone in the world is always searching for, if you can make it to Bunyonyi your closer than the communists ever came.
When we returned by canoe to the other side Lawrence began to get really excited, he almost jumped before we made the shore, he raced over to shake the hand of rather large burly looking fellow with a face that reminded me of the African Saint Nick, this was one of the countries most important ministers, one of Lawrence's 'idols' 'minister of interior defence', he shook our hands firmly and we did the formalities, he was a character who had a presence that you could feel, a true politician, always smiling. Boy was Lawrence excited!
True to style we returned to pack even more into our day, we could not pass this area without visiting Lawrence's grandfather... This ancient man still looked in good form, he had lived many lives in one with many wives and many tales, he didn't speak English but didn't have to, the stare, smile and look of the man said enough, it was an honour on my part to be a part of such a warm reunion. Lawrence elaborated on a few of his grandfathers adventures it could and should fill a book.
The mechanic had transformed our wreck as best he could, yet we were minus a headlight, we had to go on to the next town in search of this vital piece. So we went, saying goodbye to a man, a character who plays a part in a long story I barely know, saying goodbye to a lake the likes of which many a legend has been based, through the scenery we race, over pot holes, amongst our conversation, the road flies by.
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