Monday, December 15, 2008

11th of December 2008

It is far too hot here, temperatures soar, for instance yesterday it reached 37 degree Celsius and being humid there is literally no escape. The heat makes me so tired even with sufficient sleep, it is draining and when you are biking and playing sport during the day you are truly knackered at the end of it all. If you do go for a swim, take a shower or sit 2cm away from a fan, when you hop out of the pool or leave the comfort of the fan, straight away it is a snap back to reality, sleeping at night can be impossible. Picture this, cramped in a tiny net, night after night, not being able to stretch out, in an indescribable heat, sweating like mad being occasionally bitten and itchy and hearing the bain of Tanzania buzzing round you all night, some how they manage to find a chink in the amour of your net, im sure it will be the death of me, or drive me mad. I could imagine that hell would be being but naked, no money, in the middle of Dar during the day without shade, at this time of year, no water or food and being kept alive for eternity...
For all its hardships and shocks there are so many beautiful things aswell like the culture.. The music of Tanzania stretches over a wide variety from traditional music and dance to the distinctive African style of Hip-hop which sounds cooler than the American gangster rap as it is mostly in Swahili, sounds authentic and more intriguing. African rumba and Reggae are also very popular genres and are played loudly everywhere it makes for an African atmosphere, just in case you need the reminder. I often get my head bopping or getting a shoulder grove going, it makes you wanna dance even when your tired. Western music does pervade their culture somewhat but obscure artists have taken off like Dolly Parton and Jim Reeves.... I don't quite know how these caught on? The local art is something remarkable, jewelers, carpenters and all sorts of craftsmen take immense pride in their work taking their sweet, laid back time to produce beautiful pieces. Walk by the craft market you see an array of African paintings produced with enamel paints on canvas. Animals, landscapes and flowers in colourful erratic, sometimes repetitive designs, sculptures that have been given the tender love of a skilled hand look exactly like a pouncing lion or a proud rhino, the ebony sculptures are the most impressive.. when you walk by these markets the craftsmen are desperate to give their work a good, if they can, expensive home, bargaining is essential, made easier by the fact that there are so many, uniquely though there seems to be a widely accepted white man price that they wont go below, this is infinitely higher than what a local would pay as my friends have proven, it is like a social experiment, send the white guy see what the say, then send the local see them change tune. It is a great day out to see these guys hard at work with metal, wood all sorts of material, creating, in amongst blaring, beautiful music, if you pass the markets constantly you can see work develop, sculptures take shape it really is a sight.. But they just try so, so hard to sell you anything, even when I'm clearly not interested i have persistent followers "hey, my friend, Welcome!", "do you like", "how are you brother" they get an A for effort that's for sure. the woman make attractive jewelry in all sorts of African styles and their cloth work is special.. lots of these types of shops are present in my area so it is cool just to tour and look around.
Another side of the Tanzanian culture is the presence of tribes like the Masai, the Masai are present everywhere in their distinctive dress, they carry knives and large sticks, the police don't usually mess with the Masai as this tribe tends to help enforce the law, it is an uncommon unusual combination, some of the more well known warriors patrol the neighbourhoods at night keeping watch, they have whistles for attention and can produce a gang from nowhere to chase thieves or offender and the retribution is violent, Masai dont usually commit crime as the a re said to have a higher ethical code, but they are intimidating seen around in their gangs and i dont really have much of a chance of communication as they dont bother with English. I have tried to talk to many of them, it is funny they give you an look and then ask for a soda or spare change.. I learnt not to try after a while...

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