17th of December 2008

After a quick ba-ga-gi ride, something that is second nature to me now, we arrive to spend the day at one of the most prominent resorts around, okay I didn't sleep there or get a gourmet buffet i paid an entry price to use their pools and access the picturesque beach front with palm trees, coconut trees, golden sand... So this is how the other half lives aye, preferring to avoid the squalor of the streets, it is luxurious, the pool and beach are amazing with a capital A! I apply sun block and apply sunblock and, you get the picture, I do it everyday. We see so many tourists and so many prostitutes, how can you tell? trust me you can. I begin to wonder what some of these tourist get out of staying at such a luxurious location in Africa, what is their experience and perception of the place, I wouldn't complain living here, but it seems like they are some how cheating themselves. My Mum came back from an all expenses paid trip to Fiji staying in a luxury resort, she was shocked at such an experience living it up while others suffer, not her idea of a holiday, i think I have her genes, other friends have made the same comment, yet these people don't seem perturbed and for the day I'll happily join them. Relaxing and actually enjoying the heat, the old lie on your back floating in the pool and sea trick, eyes closed, always a winner..

I have to relate to you something that happen to me that was unexpected but so funny at the same time, I'm walking along the beach under the coconut trees talking to a friend when i felt a massive thud, followed by one of worst dead arms Ive had, I looked around thinking someone had hit me or thrown something at me, actually a medium sized coconut had fallen from one of the trees catching my arm in the process, lucky it wasn't my head.. haha what was that all about.. random, from that height it hurts, alot!

Back to the resort, we chilled all day, swam, ate, chatted, they had a live band, we got involved with the salsa action, a rather large African woman was my dance partner, she was energetic and quite the dancer I was laughing the whole time. then the resort produced some acrobats who flipped through skipping ropes, juggled things, balanced chairs on their noses, freakishly unbelievable antics like that. Acrobats would have to practice alot you cant just learn that sort of thing over night. We were then introduced to 'chiwawa' the baboon, he was dressed in shorts complete with a tail hole and commanded by his trainer who held him on a chain to do all sorts of tricks, I found the whole thing cruel, monkeys are clever creatures, but animals don't deserve such treatment. The day finished with a tired trip home, you don't realise just how much energy you exert when your enjoying yourself.

12-16th of December 2008

I never thought that I would get the chance to see Uganda or Kenya when I was planning this trip, but such is the way things go, I would have been satisfied to have taken in all the wonders of Tanzania, but now my hunger is increasing with more opportunity. We have planned a comprehensive trip of the 'pearl of Africa' (Uganda) comprehensive in that we have a number of spots that each of us wants to see and the rest is up to the wind... our trip has scheduled stops in Kenya, we are going to thoroughly take in the sights of east Africa. I love road trips, they are uncertain, promise so much, especially this one.. us three amigos Lawrence, Jim and myself have become good friends within the last month, we are tight and have been through a lot, we share dinners, discussions, drinks, outings and the daily complaints and philosophies of life, we have a regular spot where we meet after our various days for food and the odd beer or two. 'juhudi' it has become one of the centres of my daily routines and is iconic to my experience in Dar at least for almost a month now.. It feels like we are about to begin an adventure akin to 'on the road' by Jack Kerouac there is that kind of optimism and adventurous will about us our trek across East Africa! It is unlike the tourist treks that travel these parts often, ours is set to be unique but similar in a way, we do have our own local guide the bold, big thinking Lawrence, he never leaves a stone unturned and me and Jim are foreigners so in that sense we are 'tourists' but talking at length we want a more full African experience out of it all, Christmas and New years like never before.... an ever lasting adventure, these kind of trips can drain you, but they are always intoxicatingly addictive. reminds me of my non-stop adventures across the U.S of A excitement to excitement, wonder to wonder, hell I gotta stop counting my chickens, I get carried away.

Plans falling into place, school term is winding down ,my duties and loose ends are being tied, we get visas from the grand High Commission of Uganda, bus tickets from the busy and once again chaotic bus station. Trips to Internet cafes, topping up my phone to contact the principle of my next school, using Internet from friends air conditioned work places after school, sometimes dabbling with the library facilities keeping that constant stream of contact strong. Enjoying classic moments each and every day with kids of all ages in my differing roles, talking at length, joking at length with all teachers listening and picking up as much insight and information as I can from everyone no matter who, each person a new experience and like a blink the wonder turns to memory, others are fixed for longer, the giving and friendly acceptance of one who was once a complete stranger. The next school principle is super excited, can't wait to meet me, a change of scene is promised and organised. Mt Kilimanjaro also looms after the 'Ugandan odyssey' a weeks climb through multiple levels of differing terrain, from rain forest, to snow capped peaks, ahhhh the table top of Africa, made more affordable by making sure it is under the guise of a school trip. The next principle mentions the possibility of safari trips, did someone say that luck is on my side, I think so! Aiesec is organising a conference on Zanzibar before I leave so that will be my big finale to this whole thing, still a way off, I wonder what kind of shock it would be to hit real life again in New Zealand and back to school? I focus back on the imminent future and the possibilities, traveling Africa has never been so real.

11th of December 2008

It is far too hot here, temperatures soar, for instance yesterday it reached 37 degree Celsius and being humid there is literally no escape. The heat makes me so tired even with sufficient sleep, it is draining and when you are biking and playing sport during the day you are truly knackered at the end of it all. If you do go for a swim, take a shower or sit 2cm away from a fan, when you hop out of the pool or leave the comfort of the fan, straight away it is a snap back to reality, sleeping at night can be impossible. Picture this, cramped in a tiny net, night after night, not being able to stretch out, in an indescribable heat, sweating like mad being occasionally bitten and itchy and hearing the bain of Tanzania buzzing round you all night, some how they manage to find a chink in the amour of your net, im sure it will be the death of me, or drive me mad. I could imagine that hell would be being but naked, no money, in the middle of Dar during the day without shade, at this time of year, no water or food and being kept alive for eternity...

For all its hardships and shocks there are so many beautiful things aswell like the culture.. The music of Tanzania stretches over a wide variety from traditional music and dance to the distinctive African style of Hip-hop which sounds cooler than the American gangster rap as it is mostly in Swahili, sounds authentic and more intriguing. African rumba and Reggae are also very popular genres and are played loudly everywhere it makes for an African atmosphere, just in case you need the reminder. I often get my head bopping or getting a shoulder grove going, it makes you wanna dance even when your tired. Western music does pervade their culture somewhat but obscure artists have taken off like Dolly Parton and Jim Reeves.... I don't quite know how these caught on? The local art is something remarkable, jewelers, carpenters and all sorts of craftsmen take immense pride in their work taking their sweet, laid back time to produce beautiful pieces. Walk by the craft market you see an array of African paintings produced with enamel paints on canvas. Animals, landscapes and flowers in colourful erratic, sometimes repetitive designs, sculptures that have been given the tender love of a skilled hand look exactly like a pouncing lion or a proud rhino, the ebony sculptures are the most impressive.. when you walk by these markets the craftsmen are desperate to give their work a good, if they can, expensive home, bargaining is essential, made easier by the fact that there are so many, uniquely though there seems to be a widely accepted white man price that they wont go below, this is infinitely higher than what a local would pay as my friends have proven, it is like a social experiment, send the white guy see what the say, then send the local see them change tune. It is a great day out to see these guys hard at work with metal, wood all sorts of material, creating, in amongst blaring, beautiful music, if you pass the markets constantly you can see work develop, sculptures take shape it really is a sight.. But they just try so, so hard to sell you anything, even when I'm clearly not interested i have persistent followers "hey, my friend, Welcome!", "do you like", "how are you brother" they get an A for effort that's for sure. the woman make attractive jewelry in all sorts of African styles and their cloth work is special.. lots of these types of shops are present in my area so it is cool just to tour and look around.

Another side of the Tanzanian culture is the presence of tribes like the Masai, the Masai are present everywhere in their distinctive dress, they carry knives and large sticks, the police don't usually mess with the Masai as this tribe tends to help enforce the law, it is an uncommon unusual combination, some of the more well known warriors patrol the neighbourhoods at night keeping watch, they have whistles for attention and can produce a gang from nowhere to chase thieves or offender and the retribution is violent, Masai dont usually commit crime as the a re said to have a higher ethical code, but they are intimidating seen around in their gangs and i dont really have much of a chance of communication as they dont bother with English. I have tried to talk to many of them, it is funny they give you an look and then ask for a soda or spare change.. I learnt not to try after a while...

10th of December 2008

A day of rest!!!! The events of last night still fresh in my mind I decided to take the day off, I rang the school explaining my situation, Mrs Huckstuble understood completely, I wanted to think about where exactly I am at and just relax a while in the comfort of the colonial abode. I have been used to bathing from a bucket of late, every morning we fetch a bucket full of water from the local well to shower in, this has to be done due to the lack of water, the well is owned by our landlord and is strictly for private use so we are lucky to get access, however whilst staying at Mrs Jennifer's I get a shower from her reserve tanks which again has helped me today no-end.

I have put yesterday behind me and am moving on with an ever more cautious step, I have been invited by some local friends to take part in a rugby training with a local club. I never thought I would get a chance to play rugby in Tanzania so i am really excited, actually its amazing that i get the chance as there are only 3 teams in the whole of Tanzania and I managed to make friends with members of one of them, what are the chances..? The team was a mixed bunch of ex patriot white guys with some younger locals around my age, we basically just played touch the whole afternoon as I'm told this is their off season, but it was fun to have a run around and show off some of New Zealand's prowess on the rugby (touch) field, although it is tough work in heats up over 35 degrees. Mention your a kiwi that plays rugby in this crew and you have instant friends, they passionately love it and watch all the matches, I am impressed at how gutted they all were that the French beat us in the quarters last World Cup, "it was a forward pass" they all yell, haha good stuff, they love the All Blacks. One of the guys there actually played for the Ugandan national team that recently won the African cup, (that is Africa excluding South Africa) he was interesting to talk to, the pool of players in Uganda is only about 200 he said, only 200, wow I thought, that isn't even Taradale Rugby Club. I met another kiwi there who works at one of the more wealthier schools in the area, he also teaches rugby and is trying to establish a school league I said I would attempt, before I leave, to put things in place at D.I.S hopefully i can get this to happen it would be sweet to see results. I am also helping to organise a trip for the school in late January up Mount Kilimanjaro, this will be a great experience for the students and me, it seems to be coming together nicely, fingers crossed, i really want to climb this magnificent mountain, it is 5897 metres tall so it dwarfs alot of even New Zealand's mountains surprisingly, however it is meant to be both an amazing and quite achievable experience. For Christmas it looks like I'll be spending it in Uganda visiting the rain forests, jungles, mountains, lakes, national parks, the Gorillas and Chimps, Lawrence my good friend is going to take Jim and I to his house for Chrissy and wants to show us the beauty of his home at the same time, a free guide! I'm told there will be heaps of food...excellent(and it is meant to be beautiful)! So in between school trips, teaching, planning my own excursions and daily, sometimes dramatic life, I have a lot of planning to do!

9th of December 2008

Today was Tanzania's independence day, where bright uniformed soldiers marched in intricate formations around the countries national stadium watched by all the hierarchy past and present of Tanzanian society. It may be a day of celebration within the country but I have just had the most worry filled, dangerous of days since I started this epic and have come to realise that the sacred, precious values that we uphold in New Zealand and other more developed countries when it comes to human rights and the importance of life are not shared in this country. I have far too many examples of this in daily life but for me today broke the camels back. You ride, walk or drive along the road and you will see people suffering, whether it is a lack of medical care or a lack of a general understanding present in the common society. People drag themselves around with badly wounded limbs and sick children, same in serious mental and physical states not bothering to seek medical help or prevent the deterioration of their positions, they risk their lives daily in amongst traffic and confronting the elements without proper food and water. Woman will run in front of massive trucks narrowly escaping a grisly end, truck drivers, car drivers and bus drivers will not even hesitate to hit a vehicle or person in their path, give way rules do not apply! You think you have a right to the road, your wrong. Woman will pass their babies around in over crowded vehicles, seat belts are unheard of, standing in a speeding van that is more than driving recklessly is the norm, not eating showering or drinking in a beating sun, exposed to all sorts of diseases and insects, T.IA they say= this is Africa. For a week now Dar-es-Salaam has been without water, that means nothing no tap, shower etc, wells are drying also, those that cannot afford to buy water suffer I have seen many on the streets crowding round stagnant puddles filling buckets, rushing to burst street pipes and any filthy hollows that could contain any sign of this precious liquid, I cannot believe the lengths these people must go to... I have really only just began to mention their ever present struggles, struggles due to under developed infrastructure, legal systems including enforcement, political corruption and lack of properly directed policy initiatives, there are so many problems.

Mariam has been suffering from differing levels of malaria now for over a month, contracted by mosquito bites, it has finally culminated in her being very ill, she has been vomiting the whole day and night, so we took her to the hospital this very night. This reluctant attitude to seek medical help is common in Tanzania, people believe they can tough it out even when they are very wrong, this approach can often be deadly. Medical treatment is really cheap here especially for basics like malaria, yet still people cant afford the low prices. I joined Mariam in the hospital to get a few scary looking bites seen to by the doctor, some foreign bug had taken to me while i was asleep and my feet had reacted angrily, the doctor had no idea what the bites were but prescribed me some cream, which i would use, if i perceive no change I will definately consult others. The bites look like large Egyptian eyes. Jim has broken out in an aggressive full body rash, looks like over night he instantly got both chicken pocks and the measles, red spots everywhere, the doc thinks its heat rash, fingers crossed it isn't too bad cause i would hate to get the same thing. There is danger at every turn, you have to think twice about every single thing/place/situation, it scares me to death sometimes, you can never be too careful in tropical Africa. I have been bitten by mosquitoes now so often i can't count, it is unavoidable, they are everywhere but I have never fallen sick and take anti-malarial tablets everyday.

I have decided to give up the bike, it is far to dangerous to brave the roads and footpaths over here and every moment I hit the roads I immeadiately regret it, i found myself consciously praying that I would make my final destination, drivers are too crazy, way too crazy...

I decided that I wanted to stay at Mrs Jennifer's tonight after the worrying day, as I was traveling by taxi to the place we were involved in an accident, it was such a shock. My taxi was hit by a speeding land rover complete with bull bars, it spun our car around, completely munching, crumpling the front bonnet, the taxi driver was yelling what I believe were Swahili swear words and I was just thankful that this was a somewhat minor accident, I was safe, the land rover didn't stop, I walked the remaining kilometre shaken and stirred, I am okay but it is scary that such a thing could happen... friends, teachers and many others have been quite supportive....

8th of December 2008

Mr Kaombwe is the name of the teacher that I have been showing the rules of rugby to, he is a very respectful man and is eager to learn, Mr Kaombwe has been teaching now for pretty much his whole career so he is not new to the learning game and it helps that he likes the idea of rugby, he is geting the jist of touch and the ideas and principles of rugby but I am hesitant to even begin teachig him tackle in such a short time, they say a little knowledge can be dangerous.

Mr Kaombwe is of the muslim faith, as are a significant portion of Tanzanian residents, he is always telling me how much he wants me to get an authentic view of how the people here live, no complaints from my side "id love to" is always my response, he doesnt want me to go home with a tainted view of the people due to the city folk who, I agree dont always put Tanzania's best foot foward. He invited me to his home in 'mbagalaa' to celebrate the muslim holiday of Eid al-Hajj, in Tanzania 'Eid' is a public holiday, it is similar to Christmas day in terms of the focus on family, friends and church, it is a big deal. I must admit, I am quite nieve about the muslim religion but am always open to learn about new beliefs and cultures. Every year, millions of Muslims from around the world make the journey to Mecca, Saudi Arabia, for the annual pilgrimage (or Hajj). Dressed in the same simple white clothing to represent human equality, the pilgrims gather to perform rites dating back to the time of Abraham, the holiday is to celebrate the end of the pilgrimage and the start of the feasting period. When he told me about it, I was immeadiately interested and more than keen to spend the holiday with his family getting an incite into their relgious tradition and practice and humble everyday way of life.

Having never been to mbagalla Mr Kaombwe made the whole trip sound like a straight forward, short one, no worries, 'hakuna noma'. He said the bus ride would take less than an hour and directed me on how to catch a bus, Im always up for a challenge and a new adventure so I attempted to take the whole thing in my stride. The Bus station was a mad house of tooting, criss crossing cars and people, intially I had no idea of where to catch a bus and stood a while with a firm grip on my bag surveying the ensuing chaos. People here fight tooth and nail for a bus seat, no one wants to stand on a long, hot journey and being a holiday everyone is going somewhere. Bus collectors encourage the commotion, this is also an optimum time for thieves to take advantage aswell as crowded places hide the sly hands and amid the bustle a hand in a pocket can easily go unnoticed. There is however a rule on the streets here that if a thief is caught they are beaten by the surrounding people within an inch of their lives, sometimes further, I have heard of this alot, ordinary people surround the culparate and kick and punch him/her relentlessly, a cruel punishment for the often desparately poor thief> anyway I keep my eyes peeled. trying to find the right bus is a nightmare by itself, people jabbering Swahili names at me, inefficient signposting, I'm looking and listening for any sign of hope... a bus pulling in yells "MBAGALAA" along with alot of other names and Ive heard my signal, amidst the rush I end up safe and on a comfortable seat, I praise my upbringing surrounded by rugby, when the ruck hit i was ready, others especially woman and children aren't so lucky and miss the bus altogether, so much for common courtesy..
The journey begins, the water level in my bottle is diminishing as the sacred hour comes and goes, traffic jam, after traffic jam, shanty town after shanty town, are they shops houses, toilets? they all merge, the only white guy... again, no wealthy tourist to be seen here, only this cramped kiwi roughing it with the locals. the packed bus is a moving furnace producing sweat etc. all hope of me putting on my Sunday best and making a good impression disappears. we finally arrive after 2 hours to a bus station that is dare I say it crazier than before, it is just a flat patch of dirt worn down by many vehicles in the middle of arid surroundings, the only signs are those of gas companies that smell the sweet scent of profit... I patiently wait beside one of these signs which i figure to be an ample landmark and phone and text like a mad man, I feel sooooo vulnerable people are coming up to me trying to speak, making a spectacle of me, dodgey groups try their luck for ages laughing, in the full heat of the sun it becomes beyond a joke, this isn't exactly a tourist destination so I'm a big deal.. not such a good thing at all, i make it known that touching is not appreciated so much. A big sigh of relief after over an hour my name is called and Mr Kaombwe is smiling and gesturing for me to jump in his car... we take off, he asks how I found the trip, i said something like "good thanks", life goes on.

Mr Kaombwe has a nice village and a simple, beautiful home with everything a family could need his wife was all smiles, his son whom i have taught, energetic, daughter shy I was told to chill out, they served home made mango juice and a lovely traditional rice dish, we ate to the strange accompaniment of country music and talked randomly about what came to mind, they were very excited to have me and were spoiling me alot, the mango juice was to die for.. it made my day! they praised my open minded nature for actually coming to their lovely home as many had declined their offers, they really treated me like a foreign prince.. I was introduced to the whole extended family where we ate and drunk more, then we ate more, I was beginning to feel the way I do at the end of every 25th of dec.. it was an amazing foreign feast. I prayed with the fmily in the mosque for loved ones that had past, it reminded me of church back home. every member was loving the day and wanted photo's, hand shakes and my limited Swahili interaction, we talked freely with Kaombwe's interpretations and their views and happiness were extended, as was mine.. I was really lucky today, thankful to have met Mr Kaombwe and family who were truly very nice, welcoming people. Experiencing first hand the ways of another culture inside and out, it is more than any book could ever tell and more than i can ever relate on my blog though this attempt gives an idea, the goodbyes were heartfelt, we had shared a great day and i got home in one peace!

7th of December 2008

Let me tell you a little bit about the food here, Swahili cuisine is all about making the most of what you have, (which in Africa can sometimes be very little) and let me just say that the locals do a very good job of making tasty, filling dishes with what they have. Rice is eaten alot everything is with rice. rice, rice, rice, rice, rice. They have delicious spicy mixes like curries, beef and chicken type casseroles or soups, plenty of fish, some very particular rice dishes are made with lots of herbs and spice and served with a type of salsa, its good! They eat banana as a part of their savoury meals, I'm told that there are two differing types of banana, the ones us kiwi's know and import as fruit and the ones the Africans dont allow to ripen to use in stews and boil ups, some of the banana casseroles are very tasty but have off putting colours. They produce interesting maize mixes that are dipped in all types of colourful sauces, the maize mixes are interesting in colour and texture, they are very, very white, at first it looked odd to see delicious looking concoctions combined with a smattering of what looks like play dough, still it's very nice. Vegetables used commonly are okra, spinach, turnip and of course the usual like potatoes etc.. another interesting mix is potatoe chips or fries and eggs, a chip filled omelet, very filling, cheap and quite good. They have burger chains and subway over here, but i haven't been and don't intend to as they are exuberantly priced.

It is not uncommon to walk into a restaurant in Dar-es-Salaam to find that the place has no food, a restaurant with no food is like a lame racehorse, whats the point, so it can be a pain to find food at times and Murphy's law states that those are the times you most want it. Restaurants can be very cheap or very expensive depending on your preferred choice, beer and spirits are cheap, as I think they lack the large alcohol taxes that we have... eating houses are far from our house and are a very hot mission indeed especially if you are unsure whether there is going to be food or not. Locals eat lunch here at 2pm and eat dinner late, if at all. In New Zealand, My family has often dubbed me the waste disposal unit so you can imagine my dismay when I find that the food here isn't exactly flowing, and it is not eaten when I'm hungry!! then again, I'm always hungry! I am very lucky as I am provided lunch at school, and it is to a high standard, it gives me the great chance of sampling all sorts of food without the worry. Talk about worry, I am unsure of food standards over here, I pass butcheries and cringe at their displays, if local restaurants prepare that sort of thing, I don't want to think. In one Turkish restaurant Lawrence and I visited, we were greeted with a yellow glupe that contained three very hard brownish, black balls, it was like being on who dares wins.. haha.. I'm told I have to wait until Zanzibar to experience the sea-food in all its glory, cant wait!

We held a graduation party at our flat last night, enter the hoards, this time I was more receptive and got involved with the BBQ'd goat that we prepared and danced the night away to traditional African music. We went to a proper club this time, one full of African music in the 'bolingo' style that originated in the Democratic Republic of Congo. The dancing involves ALOT of hip and bottom shaking.. as a prelude we watched a couple of dancers preforming on a stage near our house, the way some of these girls can dance is mesmerising. I love the music and the rhythms, I want to hear as much as I can in my short time. Despite people's best attempts, still I'm abstaining from too much drink, it most certainly would be unwise I feel.